Tinkercad is what “clicked” for me. I found that it’s very easy to start making simple functional designs, but when you are trying to make something more advanced (pain point: triangles with rounded edges) it’s a bit lacking. Plasticity seems to be the next step in this direction, but it’s pricey.
Neat. Up to this point you’ve had to install it on a windows device, and copy it along with a handful of dlls over[0][1]. Notably, I’ve only gotten Photoshop to work via this method, other products (InDesign and one other) will not run.
I was planning on making a miniature model of the Yamaha sirens, so am interested to see that people have already made models. However I think that until/unless I get stumped I will ignore these and make my own, just for fun.
There is this[0], but even with re-creating this patch on the latest wine-staging tree, I was unable to get Rekordbox (6, don’t try 7) to communicate with the board. That said, I was also unable to interact with Mixxx with the board, and that wasn’t running through wine. As a sanity check, I verified that the board runs fine on Rekordbox 6 on Windows. I was able to read the midi inputs from the board just fine from other programs on Linux, so I’m honestly not sure where the issue lies.
What do you do if the structural through-holes already have solder in them, that wick doesn’t seem to get? I’ve been trying to put a new USB C port onto my switch for quite a while now. (Now that I think about it, I can probably just shorten the prongs on the port and add solder after for structural strength).
The answer to almost every question in soldering is 'more flux'. Solder wick has flux in the center of the braid, but it's hard to get it into tight places like structural through-holes. Adding your own liquid/paste flux will make the wick much more effective.
I often add solder to make it easier for the wick to get everything. If the original assy was Lead-Free, using low temp solder (I can has lead? As a treat?) may make a difference here as well. Flux pen on the solder wick also seems to help especially if your wick is kinda crusty.
Melt the solder and thwack the board on something hard? So the board stops but the molten solder doesn't.
Sometimes though you just have to pile on solder and flux because the via is small enough that surface tension and heat dissipation means its never coming out
I have the SS-02, and I like it - I had one of the cheap blue ones first, but the pliable rubber tip really makes a difference. If you’re soldering smd by hand, it’s more than worth the $20
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