I bet the friend just pressed the Windows key, and typing "Calc" and quickly pressing enter caused Bing to search for calc instead. Common failure because window's start-menu search/load/discovery is a total mess.
if you are searching for something for the first time (or after caching invalidates), it seems like it prioritizes search sources that have already completed.
on my computer, that means web-search almost always completes first. So most of the time if I type in something "new" and don't wait, it'll bring up Bing.
Sometimes it looks like "downloads folder" file search completes before Installed app search completes, because on one occasion I typed in an app's name and it launched the INSTALLER for the app.
once all the searchs resolve it behaves "as expected". I am very surprised if you don't have the same symptoms I'm describing. Why is your computer behaving different from every Win11 install I ever interact with?
I just tried a search for "downloads" and the first result was "Downloads folder privacy settings". I never search for that so it wasn't cached. I even pasted in the query to give it less time to search before pressing enter.
I don't think I've changed any settings for search. Everything is still enabled. There's over 250,000 items in the search index so I haven't removed indexed locations. My computer is pretty much a high-end gaming PC using last generation CPU and GPU. But really I've never seen this behavior anywhere - including my very basic laptop. Maybe I could see this happening on computers that are still using a HDD but I haven't tested that.
I see you were fortunate enough to not use notepad aprox 5 months ago, when they were running the rich formatting preview. It was on by default, and would drop around 5% of the characters you type. Literally failing at the only thing it's supposed to do. I repro'd this on 2 out of 2 machines.
Maybe they fixed it, maybe they haven't. I both turned off formatting and am using vscode for notes now.
ahh, it might have been spellcheck then. I turned off all that stuff. In the heat of the moment, maybe I was a bit too angry to do proper root cause analysis :P
dunno if you tried VS2026 C#, but it's worse. I have no extensions (besides the default Copilot) and it's a never ending battle of just trying to get the normal intellisense to show up. What's worst is that the copilot autocomplete suggestions fill in made up methods/properties. Why can't it look at intellisense to get the real ones?
the update immediately prior to this broke password protected fileshares. Had to wait weeks for a patch to be deployed.
What's worse, is that so many similar problems have occured over the last 20 years is that when you try to search for the problem, you are highly likely to not find the actual cause+workaround, but will instead find one from years before that doesn't exactly apply to the current situation.
> The inverter's own breaker (say, 30/40A) is there to protect the inverter, not the cord.
I have a similar "all in one" inverter for camping, and since you seem to know what you are saying: In my setup I wired a 20A GFCI outlet to my output, and use that as my main output protection. What do you think about that?
Your receptacle (20A in your case, but regardless) is not a current limiter.
The 20A is not being "enforced" in any way and your outlet can receive, and pass on, any arbitrary current ... until something melts, that is.
You could achieve your goal by wiring in a fuse, or circuit breaker in that circuit and could probably nicely (and safely) package it up in a plastic junction box, etc.
Then again, I'm not certified for solar installations - but standard <1kV home installations and measurements. (As an anecdote, there's a specialty called 'electrical installations for hydrolysis of water' - I shall get certified in that one day just for fun.)
Buy a customer-oriented device instead, if you can. I vaguely remember there are plenty of them on the market with built-in batteries. They should have RCD/GFCI and overcurrent protection (and thermal, and BMS included) per outlet (or per bus).
If you want to stick with your current inverter, here are some thoughts from first principles:
- ground it while using, but this might be hard at a remote camping site (maybe use a grounding rod?). If it's a similar model to the one in the article, it must be grounded.
- a GFCI/RCD rated for 30mA or less with 15-20A circuit breaker (I'd suggest type-A if in EU) that matches your wiring and outlets.
There should be ready-to-go boxes that provide RCD+OC, and maybe you're already using one.
Short answer - treat it as Class I (it has a PE terminal)
Longer:
A Class I inverter/appliance relies on PE. A single insulation fault (live -> chassis) will put the chassis at line potential if PE isn’t connected.
If you run other Class-I loads (eg. fridges) downstream of a GFCI but don’t carry PE, a hot-to-chassis fault on the load won’t reliably trip anything until there’s a return path (often a person).
> A single insulation fault (live -> chassis) will put the chassis at line potential if PE isn’t connected.
As long as the other wire is not connected to ground, chassis being connected to one doesn't pose much risk.
Grounding either wire makes whole thing worse. If you ground the chassis and it's not connected to either wire it makes no difference. Once insulation on any of the wires fails and the wire connects with the chassis it becomes the neutral and ground at the same time and the other wire will shock you through ground even if you don't touch the chassis at that time.
I'm curious if GFCI would trip if you didn't have the whole thing grounded and just touched one of the wires...
I know that in normal setup GFCI detects if too little electricity goes back through neutral relative to how much goes through hot wire. Assuming nothing is grounded, would short, small leakage current when you touch one of the wires be enough to trip GFCI?
Does GFCI work both ways? If there was more current "comming back in" on the neutral than goes out on the hot would GFCI trip as well? Are the usual solutions worthless when you have just two free floating wires with potential difference between them but with no reference to ground?
Is there a code for high voltage mobile installations? It seems that EV and mobile home makers go mostly with their own solutions derived from first principles...
Well, not line-to-neutral overcurrent - which is what the person asking assumed it did.
It specifically protects against ground-path overcurrent (not ground line overcurrent - it is guarding against an undesigned path to ground, which is probably a person).
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